I brought my A-game (I think) and successfully laid out five frames at stations 2, 10, 18, 26 and 34. I did another time lapse of my work day if you would like to see a quick review.
Everything went really well and it was actually kind of enjoyable. I can't stress enough that this requires patience and attention to detail. I literally double checked every measurement before getting the markers out. I also learned that there really is no way around the lines being close together, particularly on the bottom portion. If it becomes a concern going forward, the only solution would be to lay out fewer frames and paint over more frequently. We will see and I'll keep you advised.
With the frames laid out it was time to make some saw dust. Before I powered up the machines I took some measurements from the framing table to determine how long to rough cut the pieces to. Since I purchased my lumber in the rough it had to be surfaced prior to use. I feel very comfortable with this portion of the job as I have been surfacing and squaring up stock for many years. I gave my jointer and planer a good work out and prepared my stock quickly.
I located the frame bevels from the plans provided by Mr. Buehler and used my table saw to make those cuts. I also cut some 3/4" plywood blocks the width of the finished boat planking. These blocks are used to set the timbers back from the lines on the lofting equal to the thickness of the planking so the finished boat comes out the same size as the designer intended.
I screwed the blocking to the framing table, two for the side and two for the bottom, right on the lofting lines and laid out my machined timbers. Station 2 has particularly steep angle that the side piece meets the bottom. the side piece is beveled to the angle of the slope of the bottom of the boat and the bottom timber butt's up to the side piece. Unfortunately I did not take into account how steep that angle was and I ended up cutting my side pieces to short. So I gathered up two more rough boards the correct length, machined them up, cut the bevels and tried again.
|Lofting for five stations with blocking in place for station 2.|
I drove a 3" wood screw through the edge of the bottom piece and into the side piece from the inside of the frame near the chine. This pulled the joint together nicely for the application of the gusset. The gussets were then just laid on and screwed temporarily into place. two screws on the side member and 2 on the bottom member. I then flipped the assembly over and put gussets on the other side. When we get some warmer temperatures I will take this apart and apply some Weldwood plastic resin glue to the joint and reattach the gussets. Howeve,r once glued, I will bolt the gusset to the frames instead of using screws.
The final step was to attach some temporary bracing to the assembly to hold it in place until it is attached to the keel. One down, 18 to go!
It was a busy weekend of boat building and although I only got one frame done I was happy with the progress. I also got my work shop up to temperature and epoxied the stem knee together. Once that fully cures we'll put our thinking caps on and try to figure out the best way to cut both the stem and transom knees to shape.
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