Diesel Duck 382

Diesel Duck 382
Diesel Duck 382 with the "get home" steadying sails up.

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Safety first - critical incidents for woodworkers

Well if you are only interested in boat building, this isn't going to be for you.  However, I imagine that most people checking out our project are DIY'ers themselves.  We are all pretty confident working around machinery and sharp tools and probably often take safety for granted.  However home shop accidents are one of the leading causes of home personal injury.  We surround ourselves with lots of sharp metal objects spinning one way or another at very high rates of speed.  Accidents are going to happen.

I'm no safety expert.  I can tell you I try to always wear eye protection and gloves.  I try not to wear loose clothing or have any hanging jewelry on.  Safety is every ones own responsibility and I would recommend you completely understand how to operate your machines and tools safely.  My only advice would be that if something feels wrong or unsafe, it probably is.  STOP! think of another way to do it safer.

I'm writing this not because I had an accident in the shop, but last night my son suffered a fairly serious cut on his leg.  Again, I'm no medical expert, but nearly 30 years in public service, I do have some basic first aid skills.  You don't need to have fancy training or expensive accessories to provide some basic first aid that may save you or someone else's life.  

The whitest kid in the world trying to be funny with made up gang symbols.

I'm proud of how my wife and son responded last night when blood was pouring from his inner thigh. My fear was that he had struck the femoral artery, which I know can cause someone to bleed out in under a minute.  Fortunately that was not the case and we were able to control the bleeding and transport him to the hospital.  

As proud as I was, I'm not sure either one of them really knew what to do.  I'm sure natural instincts would certainly kick in. That is of course, to cover the wound with something and push hard, which is exactly the right thing to do.  That got me thinking about DIY'ers like us.  Would we all know what to do if we stabbed our self with a chisel or became impaled by a flying piece of wood?

So I just wanted to provide some basic advice and urge everyone to get a little first aid training.  That training does not necessarily have to come from a formal class.  There's lots of information online that you can review that can get you up to speed.  Again it's nothing that complicated, but knowing what to do before it happens is critical.  Having knowledge provides confidence to keep you calm with the ability to handle the situation.

Regarding what specifically happened to my son; he accidentally stabbed himself with a hunting knife.  Now, whether he was fooling around, which is what I believe, or he was moving it when it slipped out of his hand (his explanation) is not really important when blood is pouring out of a wound.  The knife had an approximately 8 inch blade and judging from the location of the blood line on the knife tip, it penetrated his leg to a depth of about and inch and a half.

notice the dark red blood trail on the floor.

These pictures aren't that great because I was rushing.  I wanted the doctors to have a picture of what caused the injury so they were better able to treat it.  That is a great strategy we can all employ. Baring a life threatening injury, take the time to photograph what caused your injury with your phone. When doctors understand the mechanism of injury it gives them a better idea of what they are dealing with and what treatment methods would be most effective.

The most common injury in our shop's is going to be a serious cut.  If the blood is bright red and spurting out you have a serious situation.  If the blood is dark and pouring out, it's still serious, but you have a more time to make decisions.  Your first step should be to call for help.  After that cover the wound, preferably with something clean, like a towel.  If you truly dont have anything your hand will work. Provide firm steady pressure and don't remove whats covering it to see "how it's doing"  If the blood soaks through, add more on top of it.  If you can, elevate the wound above your heart.  If you still cannot control the bleeding the application of a tourniquet may be an option.

Back in the old days they use to teach us that tourniquets were the absolute last option because you risked losing the limb it was applied to.  Several wars and lots of research have proved that to be completely FALSE.  A tourniquet is an extremely effective way to control bleeding on an extremity.  

That is the tactic I used with my son.  I had an emergency med kit on my tactical vest that was in my car.  While my wife maintained pressure, I retrieved the tourniquet from it, and put it on him.  It quickly stopped the bleeding when pressure alone was not.  We then applied a pressure dressing, which is fancy way of saying we wrapped the towel covering the wound with an ACE bandage really tight, and moved him to the car and then transported him to the hospital.

You can buy a tourniquet on amazon and keep it in your tool belt.  They are small, light, cheap and very easy to use.  With a couple practice runs you'll easily be able to apply it to yourself with one hand.  I highly recommend you get one as just a regular part of your tool kit.  Take the time to learn when and how to use it!

The next most common and potentially life threatening injury is a puncture or impailment.  If it's just a puncture the same rules for controlling bleeding above apply here.  If it's an impailment, and by that I mean there is something sticking out of you, then a different strategy is needed.  Don't pull it out! leave it right where it is.  If the impailement has you stuck to a piece of equipment, do not pull yourself off of it.  Call for help immediately.  If you are not trapped against another object and can move, you want to stabilize the impaled item.  Don't go crazy, don't manipulate the object to try to get something around it to stabilize it.  Using your hands to keep it from moving is perfectly acceptable.  Get yourself immediate medical attention and remain calm!

If you suffer a puncture wound to the chest there are a few considerations.  If you are having extreme difficulty breathing or see or hear air escaping from your chest or being drawn in, you have most likely punctured your lung.  This is called a sucking chest wound.  the pressure difference inside and outside your body is actually drawing outside air in to the chest cavity.  This is further compressing your lung which is causing the difficulty breathing.  If left untreated, it is life threatening.  Call for help immediately! Ideally you need to cover this wound with an air proof dressing.  There are commercially available bandages for this injury called occlusive dressings, that have a one way valve that let air out of the chest cavity but do not let air back in.  however, you could use a piece of plastic, wax paper or even foil to cover the wound.  you can then manually "burp" the dressing to let the air out to improve lung function.  Controlling bleeding is still important so used direct pressure along with the air proof dressing.

Of course there are countless other injuries that can occur and we could spend hours what-if'ing things all day. I'm no doctor so I can't speak to how to treat all medical emergencies.  The things I have written here are meant as tips and not medical advice.  However, I think it's important that we all have some basic strategies to deal with the inevitable injuries that occur in our hobby.  Most will be minor that require the wound being cleaned and smeared with an antibiotic ointment and covered with a band-aid and then you can get back to work.  Sometimes though, and hopefully that day will never come for you, something more serious may occur.  Calling for help, remaining calm and providing some immediate care are critical to survival.  Educate yourself, work safely and be prepared to handle an emergency.

I'm going out to work on my boat.

Friday, June 9, 2017

Laying the keel: A laminated Diesel Duck Keel

So far things are going to plan.  We continue to assemble frames on our framing table while enough room is still left around the cradle to begin the keel glue up.  I started out with pen and paper to come up with a plan for the layout of the first three layers of the keel.  I didn't want any seams between layers to be closer then two feet between each layer.  I had the plan before I purchased the 2x8's so I knew how many of each size to get.  I ended up purchasing 2x8's in various quantities of 8', 10', 12' and 16'. The keel is made up of 14 layers of 2x8's.  I plan to do the glue up's for the keel in sub-assemblies of 3 boards thick.  Experience has taught me that it is impossible to apply enough force to the clamps to face glue more than 5 or 6 boards together.  Since rescorniol requires high clamping pressure I opted for a very manageable 3 board thick sub-assembly.  I haven't fully decided on the final keel glue up, but we'll probably glue the sub-assemblies together as we go.

Once the boards were in the boat shop I ripped a straight edge on each piece.  I chose my lumber as carefully as I could but there is no such thing as a perfect board.  You'll never be able to find one perfectly straight and flat so I just combed through the pile for the best ones I could find.  I left the boards oversize so I'll have some room to fit everything nice and smooth and straight.  My power planer will make quick work of that once we get to that point.

I've been a woodworker for 17 years or so and I have assembled a decent collection of clamps. However I still did not have enough for this glue up.  The assembly was over 34 feet long and because I was using Resorcinol I wanted two clamps on each side every 12 to 16 inches to ensure continuous high pressure once clamped up.  I ended up making 15 homemade clamping cawls.  They consisted of two pieces of 3/8" threaded rod and scrap white oak clamping blocks.  I machined one edge of the clamping block for each piece so it was tapered towards the center.  This resulted in a narrow high spot in the center of each block.  I drilled out holes at each end for the threaded rod to pass through.  I added nuts and washers and once the nuts are tightened down on the edges the center becomes extremely tight, which is exactly what we were after.

We worked in steps, applying the glue and closing up the joints in stages. The temperature in the boat shed was around 65 degrees which is perfect for the glue to not set up too fast.  However, closing the joint quickly, so it is not exposed to air but not yet under clamp pressure is important as well.  That part of the plan worked well, but I did not take into account how long it would to take to fasten the nut on the clamping cawls down a 36" piece of threaded rod.  After rolling nuts down by hand for what seemed like forever we quickly realized we needed a better plan.  We ended up chucking the rod into a cordless drill/driver and spinning them down that way.  It was very effective and helped keep us moving along at an appropriate pace.  

The boards were laid out in position beforehand and ready for glue. We rolled out the glue using what turned out to be not a chemically resistant foam roller. It required frequent changing after it started disintegrating.  We applied glue to all three layers at once, making sure to apply glue on each face. We then flipped the middle layer on to the first layer and applied glue to the opposite face.  We then applied the third layer and attached a few clamps.  On and on this went applying glue to only the boards we were ready to flip until the whole assembly was complete.  We used a large hammer to help align the straight edge that was ripped on each board.  I was not obsessive about making sure everything was perfectly flush.  As I said, once the keel is fully assembled I'll take my power planer to it to bring it down to it's finial dimension.

It took about 3/4 of a gallon of resorcinol to complete the job.  We had nice even glue squeeze out along all the joints.  As the instructions indicate, that is a good sign the joint is filled and has not set up.  We had everything in clamps and under full pressure within 2 hours.  We placed wax paper on the bottoms of each of the clamping cawls to keep the glue squeeze out from adhering to the keel.  

I let the glue set up a bit for about an hour before going back and scraping off the squeeze out with a dry wall mud knife.  All that was left was for the glue to harden and hopefully that glue up will be permanent!  

Using epoxy is definitely easier.  The metered pumps make it fool proof and finding all different kinds of epoxy is a breeze.  However, Epoxy is not fully waterproof and Lloyds of London does not accept it as a structural adhesive.  Now, I'm not concerned about getting insurance from Lloyds, but I do want to do things right.  Since the keel will be through bolted and drift bolted together, I probably could have gotten away with using epoxy.  But for only a little more effort and careful measuring, I saved a few bucks and have a completely waterproof adhesive.  I'm using Aerodux 185 which is not your grandfathers rescorcinol.  It cures down to 50 degrees, has some gap filling properties and can be thickened with fillers.  It still requires careful mixing by weight, but a simple postal scale and a calculator make quick work of getting the proportions right.  I'm not advocating either way, as each boat builder has to make his/her own decisions, but don't be afraid of this glue just because of the difficulties associated with the old formulations.

In other news, I attended the Homeland Security Conference this week in Buffalo NY.  Part of the conference offered a tour and boat ride on the Edward M. Cotter fire boat (Engine 20).  The Cotter is the oldest operating fire boat in the United States.  It is captained and engineered by active duty Buffalo FD personnel but the rest of the crew are volunteer.  They survive on a small budget from the fire department but rely heavily on donations to continue operating.

It is an exquisite piece of engineering, lovingly maintained by some dedicated men. She is powered by two, 1940's era Caterpillar diesels which hum like clock work.  When maintenance is required the parts are often fabricated from scratch.  Representatives from Caterpillar have been out to the boat and marvel at how these engines continue to perform.

It was a glorious day on Lake Erie, with blue sky's and 70 degree temperatures.  We cruised for about an hour with the boat putting on a small display of it's firefighting capabilities.

It was a fine day and probably my favorite part of the conference.  If you are ever in the Buffalo, NY area I strongly encourage you to stop by and check it out.  As much as I would love to have our readers become sponsors for the Sea Dreamer Project the Cotter is certainly more deserving.  I hope you check them out and buy a shirt or a cap.

As for us, we'll continue to work on our project as much as time will allow.  I'm not going to feel bad about enjoying the summer or spending time with the family so I think progress is going to slow a bit for a while.  However I will continue to keep everyone updated and I hope you take on a dream project of your own.  

Thanks for following along and keep your eye out for the next episode of the Sea Dreamer Project on YouTube.

Thursday, May 25, 2017

Finding Time

The work continues, but at a snails pace.  It's spring in upstate NY and while it's perfect boat building weather it's also perfect grass cutting, tree trimming, hedge clipping, weeding, landscape and spring clean up weather. I almost feel guilty not getting out to the boat shop so that I have something to write about along with producing content for the YouTube series.  I have to remind myself that it's supposed to be fun! There are no deadlines, no bosses and no expectations.  I work on the boat when I can but I also have responsibilities at home and at work.  Not to mention with such a short warm weather season where I live, it's important to take advantage of nice days for time on the jetski and other family activities.
An OT shift with our Marine Unit
So, in between working (including a few OT shifts which have had me working 17 of the last 18 days) lawn care and some leisure time we have made a little progress.  In early May, I made a trip down to the Seneca Lake area to pick up the remaining larch for the frames from one sawmill, and another trip to an Amish sawmill for 850 BF of white oak.
The sawmill operator for the Larch was busy with another job so he couldn't meet me at the mill site.  He told me where it was and that I could pick it up anytime and leave my payment in a tin can adjacent to the storage container.  After some searching I located the honor system based payment method and found another envelope filled with cash from another customer.  I dutifully left my payment with a smile, happy that there are still some people doing things the old fashion way.
The Christmas themed can forces people to be honest!
Then with my friends trailer fully loaded with over 1000 board feet I headed home.  It took me two days to organize and stack all the custom cuts.  I wanted things close to the order I would need them so I didn't have to dig through the whole pile.
We have completed 10 frames and still have 9 more to go plus the transom.  It's the same process over and over.  However I am getting much more proficient, especially on the tricky raised sheer assembly.
A few days ago I had about an hour available which was enough time to convert the heights above the baseline and lay out the corresponding chalk lines.  I'm learning tricks of the trade here as well.  It's funny how something so simple like snapping a chalk line has some shortcuts.  I snap about 4 lines before I reel the string in to be re-coated with chalk.  This helps keep chalk dust off the table with the added benefit of lighter, crisper lines.  The layout lines continue to be tight so attention to detail is a must!
This weekend is Memorial Day, so the plan is to head up to the family cottage for some much needed jetski time.  I wish you all a safe and happy holiday weekend.  To our veterans I say thanks for your service, truly, we are all in your debt.  Our family will be sure to say a prayer to all those who made the ultimate sacrifice.

Wednesday, May 3, 2017

The cost of Building a wooden boat

What an eye opener it was calculating how much we have spent on this project so far!

I know you're not supposed to talk about money in public but I think it's an important part of the project.  After all, if you are crazy enough to believe you can build your own blue water cruiser, you certainly need to know if you can afford to do it.

I consider us to be a pretty average family with a mortgage, 2 car payments and 2 children in high school.  We try not to carry any credit card debt but we are still making payments on our jetski.  My wife and I both have stable, full time employment and our household income is less than $175,000. That number sounds pretty good until you understand that the county we live has one of the highest tax burdens in the country.  With the addition of various other New York State taxes our household tax burden for income, property and school exceeds $40,000.  So as I said, we certainly aren't starving but we are not care free, wealthy people.  We run our checking account down pretty low every two weeks just like everyone else.

We save a little, invest a little and put a little aside for the kids college fund.  We have funded this build pay check to pay check as George describes in his book.  I have used a little of our savings account for some of the larger cash purchases but I've worked to pay that money back to myself.  This build has definitely required changes in our spending habits and we've all had to sacrifice a little.  I've worked a little over 110 hours of overtime this year to help supplement our income to help minimize the impact of the associated costs.

As I've said before you really need your spouse "all in" if this is something you are considering. Money is the #1 argument couples disagree over, so if you attempt this without your spouse being on board, it's going to cause considerable tension.  My wife and I talked long and hard about what this build was going to take long before we ever broke ground on the boat shed.  This is OUR dream, not my dream. I can't see it working any other way than to have the whole family on board for such a challenge.

The cost included in my calculations are only for the things required for the boat.  The following numbers do not include the cost of building the boat shed.  Previous columns have talked about the costs and materials for that and we ended up building our boat shed for around $1800.  That build certainly could have been done cheaper but I'm happy with how it turned out.  Additionally, after 81 mph winds rolled through our town and our building didn't suffer any damage, I consider it money well spent for the extra durability.  

While for me personally, I believe the boat shed to be essential (my wife was right!), someone certainly could do a "blue sky" build.  The shelter has allowed me to keep the wind off of me on those cold winter days and dry on these rainy spring days.  Not to mention it allows for the convenience of keeping your tools close at hand because they are protected from the elements.  Make no mistake, this build is hard work.  It would be to easy to fall back on the excuse of its too cold, too rainy, too snowy, or too windy to work on the boat today, if you don't have a shelter to build in.  However, to each his own and that is up to individual builders to decide.

I consider this phase 1 of the boat build.  We have all the lumber and adhesive for the keel.  We have most of the lumber and plywood for the frames.  We expect to take delivery of the remaining lumber to complete all the frames, bilge stringers, chine log, deck beams, house beams and deck carlins this month.  I'm including the cost of the lumber we will be picking up this month in the numbers to follow.  

Phase 2 will include buying and installing the diesel tanks and enclosing the framed boat with traditional planking and 2 layers of plywood on the sides and bottom. Phase 2 will also include the plywood for the engine room bulkheads and the 2 layers of plywood to cover the top-sides. 

Without further adieu.....(drum roll)........The total invested in phase 1 of the boat build is:

$7095.00 USD

That number breaks down for the major categories as follows:
  • Plans:         $1800
  • Lumber:     $2464 (Sheet stock, SYP posts, 1300 B.F. Larch, 830 B.F. White Oak, 2-by stock)
  • Adhesive:   $889 (Resorcinol, Epoxy, Wood glue, Plastic Resin glue)
  • Fasteners    $564 (Galvanized carriage bolts, Galvanized drift bolts, Deck screws)
  • Prop Shaft: $400
The remaining $800 or so dollars include things like threaded rod, paint, industrial fan and odds and ends that were required.  These are the little things that are $50 here and $20 there that are not tracked as well.  I am constantly aware of where the money is going and I try to shop for the best prices on the things I need.  I use the CAD renderings of the plans to take accurate measurements so I can estimate the amount of materials I need.  I try to take into account a minimal amount of waste so I don't turn money into saw dust.  That's a risky plan in the sense that I have already under estimated the amount of mistakes I would make.  Additionally I've been fussy about the quality of the lumber I am using and have been rejecting some pieces because I don't like the defects.  In the end though, running short of materials is just an inconvenience because you can always buy more.  However, having more than you need is a waste of money.

I have no idea how much this build is going to cost.  I have never owned a boat and don't really have any idea of what kind of systems will be required.  I'm learning as I am going.  What little I have learned indicates that this is the cheapest part of the build.  In the grand scheme of boat building, lumber and glue are cheap.  Engines, tanks, finishing and systems are where the real money goes.

I'm painfully aware of how ridiculous the above sounds to the seasoned boat owner or the veteran boat builder.  I can see them shaking their heads as they think about the idea of a guy who has never owned or built a boat, attempting to build a 41' yacht for their first build and first boat.  It is indeed crazy, but I know it can be done and I know that I can do it.  It is my dream and I am having a great time fulfilling it.

I have been managing risk in my personal and private life for 41 years, always planning 10 steps ahead and living with the stress of worrying what could go wrong.  It's liberating to take things as they come while dreaming of the end game instead of worrying about the path.  I'll never be able to afford the dream of a waterfront home, but I can build a home to be on the water.  A home that will take us anywhere in the world my wife and I choose to go.  Don't waste your life dreaming, spend your life doing!

Our site just went over 25,000 views and the support and words of encouragement have been a true blessing.  We so appreciate you all following along and being a part of our project.  If you're ever in upstate NY don't hesitate to send us an email  at contact@seadreamerproject.com so we can set up a time for you take a look at our progress first hand.  Be careful though, we may put you to work! 

Please check out our YouTube channel and Facebook page by following the links at the top of the page.  We would love for you to like and subscribe to our channel and page.

Enjoy your day and go create something!

Monday, April 24, 2017

That's forever! Wooden boat frame construction.

Spring has sprung and with the warmer temperatures it's perfect weather for glue!  The first five stations we lofted out are now complete.  Chines cut, glued, bolted and done, they are now permanent.

I stressed for weeks over whether to cut the chine notch on the table or after the frames were installed on the keel.  George Buehler recommends doing it on the table but other Duck blogs I have read have recommended doing it once they are installed.  One builder said after he cut them on the table the chine notches did not line up once installed on the keel.

It's easy to understand why the notch may not line up when you think about it.  The plans indicate that the chine notch is 2 1/4" deep (3 layers of 3/4" material laminated together) 2" on the outside of the notch and 3 1/4" on the inside.  However, it is impossible to have these 3 dimensions exactly at each station.  The angle between the sides and bottom is constantly changing from station to station and no two frames are the same.  The only measurement that is constant for each station is the thickness of the chine log.  In my mind you have to be flexible with the other two measurements to ensure they line up.

With that in mind I created a simple plywood jig taking into account the two dimension I knew the notch could not exceed.  The inside 3 1/4" dimension and the 2 1/4" depth are the important ones.  The 2" outside dimension is going to be different for each station.  The jig is simply to small pieces glued together 2 1/4" deep by 3 1/4" long in the shape of an "L".  When placed on the station you simply line up the depth side flush with the outside of the frame while simultaneously aligning the 3 1/4" height side of the jig flush with the bottom frame. This ensures that the notch will not exceed the maximum dimensions of the laminated chine log stock.  The outside of the lamination will be proud of the bottom frame but that's a good thing.  This will allow extra material to be faired off later to align perfectly with the bottom.
The jig is the L shaped pieces of plywood in the center of this picture.
With the jig in position it's a simple matter of tracing the shape out on to the frame.  Once marked I used the jig saw with a long blade to cut it out.  I cut out each notch at the same angle of the corresponding frame bevel.  These will need to be fine tuned at each station upon installation but my goal is to take as much "meat" out of the notch as I can when it's easiest to work on the frames.

To match the angle of the bevel I simply laid my jigsaw base on the side of the corresponding piece I was cutting being careful to establish the angle with the saw in the same direction the cut will be made.  I then adjusted the angle of the blade until it matched bevel of the frame piece.

I made the cuts a few different ways before I found what worked best.  Being mindful that the angle of the saw blade would change the dimensions of the notch, you need to be careful to cut on the correct side of the line. You don't want to make the cut larger than the jig layout.

What I found to work best was cutting with both gussets in place and the wide side of the frame face down on the table.  When you lay your jig on the narrow side and adjust the saw blade angle it ensures that the cut never exceeds the dimensions of the jig.  Once I had my head straight understanding all these angles the cutting of the notches went quickly.  I struggle with the mathematics of woodworking, in particular geometry.  It takes me a little longer than the average person to have a good understanding of what is happening.

Next up was drilling the bolt holes, gluing the gussets and installing the bolts.  Nothing complicated here besides being careful of where the bolts go.  Each frame receives 20 bolts, 10 on each side, 5 per piece.  The hardest part was deciding which glue to use.  Once again I stressed over this detail. Epoxy, Rescirnol, Plastic resin or Titebond III were all options.  After reading extensively I was leaning toward TBIII.  Then the builder of the Diesel Duck, Pelagic, commented on one of my posts of how he used gallons of TBIII in his build.  If you've ever seen how beautiful his boat came out (pictures HERE) I was sold on TBIII.

Ultimately my choices came down to plastic resin and TBIII.  I know that TBIII is not a structural adhesive and that plastic resin is.  However I am not relying on the glue to hold the joint together, that's what the bolts are for.  The glue is the suspenders in the belt and suspenders approach I am taking with this build.  Additionally plastic resin glue requires very specific conditions and temperatures in order to cure properly.  If not cured properly the glue fails terribly.  I read many stories of things going bad with this adhesive.  Since I could not guarantee the protracted time periods to meet the conditions that plastic resin requires I went with TBIII.

While more expensive than plastic resin, TBIII is premixed and easier and quicker to apply.  It's rated as waterproof, just as plastic resin, yet it will cure down to around 45 degrees.  It's the glue I used on the boat shed I'm building in and that structure survived 81 MPH winds with no damage.

I marked my holes with a marker then drilled them out.  I then removed the screws from the gusset and applied the glue.  I reinstalled the gussets and screws and then flipped the frame over and did the same thing on the other side.   I then hammered through all the 5/16" bolts and applied washers and nuts.  I tightened them down to the point that the wood fibers began to compress.  You don't want to crush the wood and cause it to split.

That process was repeated for all the frames and once completed they were stacked along the side of the boat shed.

I then put a fresh coat of paint on the framing table in preparation of the next round of frame lofting.

Finally, we purchased the remainder of the lumber required for the keel.  I ended up cashing in my credit card points that I didn't even know I had from 10 years of using the same card.  This resulted in over $400 in home depot gift cards that we used to buy Douglas Fir 2x8's in various lengths.

It was quite a sight to see those sixteen footers hanging out the back of the truck be we got them home safe and sound.

Then just because I wanted to see what it looked like I stacked them up in the boat shed in the form of the lower portion of the keel.

It's massive and this is just the first part too! There is still another 9 inches to go that will be comprised of the larch we bought a few months ago.  I wanted to use the rot resistant larch as we got into the inside of the boat where the wood will be going through regular wet/dry cycles.  I'm not worried about the submerged part of the keel rotting as it will not be exposed to the air and will be encapsulated in epoxy and fiberglass cloth.

Now it's on to lofting out the next batch of frames and repeating the process.  The only difference is that we can apply the glue and bolts as we go.  That is going to be nice because the less you have to move these frames back and forth from the table, the better.  They are fairly heavy but it's their size that makes them difficult to move around.

Check out our Facebook page if you want to follow along in real time on our work days.  You can follow the link at the top or click HERE.  If you want to watch us in action check out our YouTube CHANNEL.  Thanks for following along and good luck on your project, go create something!